Most people come to Cyprus for the sea, and I completely understand why. But the Troodos Mountains in the heart of the island offer something entirely different — cool air, pine forests, Byzantine painted churches, medieval monasteries, wine villages, and walking trails that wind through landscapes that feel a world away from the coastal resorts below. If you visit Cyprus and don’t spend at least a day in the mountains, you’re missing a genuinely important part of what the island is.
I love the Troodos for its contrast. When the coast is sweltering in August, the mountain villages sit at 1,500 metres and feel positively cool. In winter, there’s actual skiing at the Mount Olympos resort — the southernmost ski area in Europe. And year-round, the painted Byzantine churches of the Troodos — nine of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites — represent one of the finest collections of medieval religious art anywhere.
Here’s how to plan a proper visit to the Troodos.
Getting There & Getting Around
The Troodos is accessible by car from all the main coastal cities — about an hour from Limassol or Nicosia, a little longer from Paphos or Larnaca. A hire car is essentially essential; public transport to the mountain villages is limited and infrequent. The mountain roads are well-maintained but winding — take your time and enjoy the drive. The village of Troodos (at the summit area) is the main hub, but the most interesting villages — Kakopetria, Platres, Omodos, Pedoulas — are scattered across the foothills and valleys.
Top Things to Do in the Troodos
UNESCO Byzantine Churches
The painted churches of the Troodos are the main reason many people make the journey inland. Nine churches are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites; each contains remarkable frescoes spanning the 11th to 16th centuries, preserved by the dry mountain climate. The Church of Panagia tou Araka near Lagoudera and the Kykkos Monastery are particularly impressive. The churches are often locked — local wardens hold keys and are usually easy to find. Give yourself a full day to visit three or four properly.
Kykkos Monastery
The wealthiest and most visited monastery in Cyprus, perched at around 1,140 metres. The monastery contains an icon of the Virgin Mary attributed to Saint Luke and is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the Orthodox world. The complex is large, lavishly decorated, and fascinating. There’s also a museum. Dress modestly to enter.
Mount Olympos & Troodos Summit
At 1,952 metres, Olympos is the highest point in Cyprus. In winter it gets enough snowfall for a small ski resort to operate — the southernmost ski area in Europe and a genuine novelty. In summer, the summit area has walking trails and extraordinary panoramic views across the island and out to sea. The Atalante Trail is one of the best walks, circling the summit through pine and cedar forest.
Omodos Village
My favourite village in the Troodos foothills — a beautifully preserved traditional village with a cobbled central square, the monastery of the Holy Cross, and numerous wine and lace shops. The village produces excellent local wine and is known for zivania (a potent Cypriot spirit). Go on a weekday morning if possible to avoid weekend day-trippers.
Kakopetria
A larger village in the northern Troodos, known for its preserved old quarter of traditional stone houses and for the Church of Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis, one of the finest UNESCO-listed painted churches. The village has a selection of good restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere.
Caledonia Waterfalls
A 2km walking trail from the Troodos resort area leads through pine forest to the Caledonia Falls — at 12 metres, the highest waterfall in Cyprus. The walk is easy and pleasant, following a stream through cool forest. Best in spring when the water flow is strongest.
Where to Stay
Staying overnight in the mountains changes the experience significantly — you get the evenings and early mornings when the day-trippers have gone. Platres is the main mountain resort town with the most accommodation options — hotels, guesthouses, and a pleasant village atmosphere. Kakopetria has several traditional guesthouses in the old quarter. Troodos village itself has a few basic options near the summit. Any of these give you a cool, peaceful mountain base.
Where to Eat & Drink
Mountain Cypriot cooking is hearty and delicious. Slow-roasted lamb (kleftiko), village sausages (loukanika), grilled halloumi, black-eyed bean salad, and chunky village bread are staples. In winter, bean soups and stews appear on menus. Local mountain wine — produced in the foothills villages — is excellent; the Maratheftiko and Xynisteri grape varieties are indigenous to Cyprus and well worth seeking out. Commandaria, the ancient dessert wine produced in the region below Troodos, is a must-try.
Best Time to Visit
The Troodos is a genuine four-season destination. Spring (March–May) is beautiful — wildflowers, cool air, and the painted churches at their best in the clear light. Summer is a welcome escape from coastal heat. Autumn brings harvest season in the wine villages. Winter offers the unique experience of skiing in Cyprus — surreal but real. The roads can close temporarily after heavy snowfall; check conditions in December–February.
My Tips for the Troodos
- Spend at least one night — the mountains at dawn and dusk, when the day-trippers have gone, are entirely different to the midday rush.
- Pick up a church warden’s contact information from the tourist office in Troodos village before setting off for the painted churches.
- Omodos on a quiet weekday morning is one of the best experiences in Cyprus — the square, a coffee, and a glass of local wine.
- The Atalante Trail around Mount Olympos is manageable in 2–3 hours and gives you the best views on the island.
- Buy Commandaria wine directly from a producer in the region — it’s significantly better than the bottled versions in tourist shops.
Final Thoughts
The Troodos is Cyprus’s best-kept secret from casual visitors, and I’d genuinely argue it’s where some of the island’s most important cultural heritage sits. The painted churches, the wine traditions, the mountain villages — it’s a deeply rewarding part of Cyprus to explore, and the cool air after days on the coast feels like a genuine gift.
The village of Omodos is one of the Troodos highlights — our Omodos village guide goes into more detail. For timing your visit, our guide to the best time to visit the Troodos covers each season honestly. The mountains are most naturally combined with Limassol (an hour south) or Nicosia (an hour north). For an off-road way to explore, our Cyprus jeep safari guide covers the routes that pass through the mountains.